We've noticed that a lot of Finger Lakes winegrowers lean toward emphasis of the austere, angular, "white pepper" expressions of Grüner Veltliner, which is fine...but when you taste the more complete, balanced and expressive version made by Hans Peter Weis, you realize the grape is far more chamber music than one-note samba. Very obviously issuing from old vines, this wine boasts a sophisticated texture and a satisfying, mouth-coating finish.